To close Watches & Wonders with what the fair doesn’t show, we need to talk about the pieces that never hit the showcase. These are the watches worn by those who don’t ask for a timepiece but command a masterpiece, crafted solely for them, outside of catalogues and far beyond reach. At this level, watchmaking is no longer a market—it’s a discreet diplomacy between the very powerful and the very rare.
Bernard Arnault, Europe’s wealthiest man, plays chess with the elegance and precision of someone who controls both the game and the board. On his wrist, a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5740G Perpetual Calendar—but not just any version. His piece features a Tiffany blue dial, never released for public sale. This is not a limited edition. It’s a unique commission, made for him and him only by the Geneva manufacture. The value? Impossible to estimate.
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Mark Zuckerberg, founder of Meta, was recently spotted wearing a Patek Philippe 5303R. This minute repeater skeleton in rose gold, fitted with white-gold foliage engravings and exposed gongs on the dial side, is one of the rarest complications in the world. Only a dozen or so are produced each year. Retail price: $1.2 million. It doesn’t scream money, but it speaks fluent connoisseur.
Anant Ambani, son of Mukesh Ambani, chose the Richard Mille RM 27-02 Rafael Nadal. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, this tourbillon in Quartz TPT is both ultralight and engineered for extreme resistance. Valued at $1.2 million, it was caught on his wrist in a candid photo. At just 28, Anant is already seated at the table of elite collectors.
Jay-Z reminded the world that he never does things halfway. At the NAACP Awards, he wore a Richard Mille RM 056 Blue Sapphire, featuring a fully transparent sapphire case tinted in blue. This is a one-of-one piece, made exclusively for him. No duplicates exist. The case alone requires over 1,000 hours to produce. The price exceeds $2.5 million. This is not just a flex—it’s a statement carved in crystal.
Hun Sen, former Prime Minister of Cambodia, made no attempt to hide it. He was photographed wearing a Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001, one of the most complex watches ever created by the brand. Entirely hand-engraved, it features a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and celestial map on two dials. Estimated at $8 million. Reports suggest he also owns the brown and black variants, pushing the total value beyond $20 million.
Neymar Jr wraps up this selection with a piece that fits his persona perfectly. He was seen wearing a Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon in black titanium. Inspired by the Bugatti W16 engine, this watch showcases a miniature moving block and skeletonised mechanics. Limited to 72 pieces worldwide, it’s priced at $310,000. Loud, bold and unapologetically extravagant—exactly what you’d expect from Neymar.
At this level, wearing a watch is no longer about telling time—it’s about defining status. These pieces are not for sale. They are either offered privately or commissioned directly, with details that will never be made public. This is where watchmaking transcends into something else, where time no longer ticks but declares your place in the world.
Article written by Chris Samassa, Founder of Osterman Watch
